In vitro meat: Kind to animals, cruel to humans
The first International In Vitro Meat Symposium, held last month at the Norwegian Food Research Institute, brought together researchers intent on furthering the science of engineered meat. Couple this assembly of scientists with PETA's (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) recent offer of $1 million to anyone who can grow chicken meat from stem cell cultures, and within a few years we may find animal flesh from a "meatri" dish on the family dinner table.
Whether or not the "meat" will be a big culinary hit depends on whether empathy for chickens outweighs the creepiness of eating flesh that never clucked, walked or took a breath. While it would be more humane to the animals that we eat not to raise them for slaughter, it is not humane to expect people to eat engineered flesh, just because it is possible to create it.
The concept of growing meat is not a new one. In 1932, Winston Churchill suggested that it would be "more efficient to cultivate wings and breasts in vitro rather than growing an entire chicken." Indeed, in 1912, Alexis Carrel, a Nobel Prize winner and surgeon, cut a piece of heart muscle from a chicken embryo and fed it nutrients. When Carrel died 32 years later, the muscle was still alive and thriving. Carrel's experiment was described as "horrific" and, after he died, the living heart muscle was terminated.
The rules of PETA's contest are simple. Produce an in vitro chicken-meat product that has a taste and texture indistinguishable from real chicken flesh. Manufacture the product in large enough quantities to be sold commercially and sell it in at least 10 states. While the rules are simple, the process, which would have been right at home in Frankenstein's lab, is not.
The production of in vitro meat involves taking cells from an animal and then placing them in a nutrient-rich environment. The cells proliferate and are mechanically stretched to increase their size. However, "real" meat is made up of muscle, fat, blood and connective tissue, so to get this vat-grown meat to resemble a steak or chicken breast, other measures have to be applied. For example, by applying an electrical stimulus, muscle cells can be induced to contract and develop. (Frankenfilet anyone?) In addition, researcher Dr. Carlijn Bouten suggests, "One can also simulate blood flow by putting thin tubes in the tissue." This makes me more queasy than the stench of a feedlot.
According to Jason Matheny, the director of New Harvest, an organization that funds research on in vitro meat, the easiest way to engineer edible flesh is to "grow meat sheets," layers of animal muscle and fat cells stretched out over large flat areas. These sheets could be stacked to get a thicker, and perhaps the assumption can be made, juicier cut of meat. Matheny also states that, "With cultured meat, there is no body to support; you're only building the meat that eventually gets eaten."
Is the process of engineering meat any more revolting than the sad state of chickens living in airless warehouses with their little beaks clipped off so they can't peck each other to death? Is a "meat sheet" a better option than antibiotic-laden beef from cattle that have never had a "happy cow" moment? While producing meat without the expense of feeding and slaughtering animals would solve some of our ecological (less burping bovines destroying the ozone layer) issues, the probability of the final product being palatable to the public is slim and there are better alternatives available than pseudo burgers.
It would be more beneficial to apply PETA's $1 million dollar reward to an entrepreneur who developed more humane methods of raising livestock. They could require that the methods consider the quality of life of the animals and put meat in the market while still providing a profit to the farmers and cattlemen. If these methods raised the cost of meat, perhaps meat consumption would be more conservative, thus also helping to alleviate the ecological issues of water pollution and greenhouse gases.
The debate over whether humans are inherently meat eaters will rage on as long as there are vegetarians, carnivores and animal rights activists. Buckminster Fuller, an American visionary, author and the second president of Mensa, once said, "Why would I go to all the trouble of eating all my vegetables when the cow does all the work for me?" Humans eat meat and although we have evolved from eating raw rabbit on a spit to serving up a nice filet mignon, wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon and topped with bearnaise sauce, our biological desire for meat remains the same. Even though advances in nutritional analysis clearly indicate that humans can live without meat, do we really want to?
Record Searchlight contributing columnist Alana Marie Burke can be reached at alanamarieburke@gmail.com.











